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Category: spring
Storing Fresh Ginger
Fresh ginger, also known as ginger root, adds a flavorful punch—spicy, pungent, sweet—to a variety of sweet and savory dishes and is one of the key ingredients in Asian, Indian, and Caribbean cuisines. Fresh ginger root is usually grated or slivered. Ginger can also be dried and ground; ground ginger is a spice commonly used in baked goods by Americans and Europeans.
Ginger originated in India and was regarded as an essential spice and medicine for various ailments. It was one of the first spices traded globally making its way into Europe and other Mediterranean regions via the various trade routes. Ginger quickly gained in popularity making it a highly sought after commodity at significant cost. Spanish explorers brought ginger to the New World.
There are many varieties of ginger but all are an herbaceous perennial–not to be confused with Wild Ginger, a weedy ground cover. Ginger is cultivated throughout the tropics in some 40 different countries. India is the largest producer of ginger followed by China. Hawaii is the largest producer in the US; however, ginger can be grown in home gardens throughout the US. If started indoors in March, ginger can be successfully propagated, transplanted and grown in Midwest gardens for fall harvest.
The aroma and flavor of ginger is greatly influenced by where it is grown, cultivar used, growing conditions, and time of harvest. The peak season for commercially grown fresh ginger is early spring through late summer (April, May) and is known as spring or young ginger. Spring or young ginger has a very thin skin and is juicy, mild and tender; it may also exhibit pink knobs or pink blush. Ginger harvested in the fall is known as mature ginger; it has a tougher skin and is more pungent and fibrous. Whether young or mature, the rhizome should be firm and have a light brown skin. Removing the skin from the rhizome is optional; if removed, scraping is recommended over peeling. Ginger may be grated, chopped, sliced minced, or julienned.
Keeping Ginger Fresh
To preserve the qualities of ginger, it is important to keep it as fresh as possible. Unless you have long-term plans for fresh ginger, purchase only what fits your needs as closely as possible. A recipe may call for a thumb or a specific amount of ginger. If a recipe calls for a thumb of ginger, it usually means a piece that is approximately 2 inches (5 centimeters) long, ½ inches (1.5 centimeters) in diameter, weighs 0.5 ounces (15 grams), and will yield one tablespoon of minced ginger.
Fresh, unpeeled ginger can be kept on the counter at room temperature for 1-2 weeks but is better kept in an airtight container/bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer where freshness can be retained for 4-6 weeks. Leftover peeled ginger will keep 2-3 weeks if tightly wrapped and stored in the refrigerator. Do watch the rhizome for molding, softness, discoloration or off smell or appearance; these are signs of spoilage and if detected, the rhizome should be disposed. Like other fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh ginger contains enzymes that break down its starch and pectin over time.
If longer storage is needed, fresh ginger can be preserved by freezing, storing in alcohol, dehydrating, pickling, fermenting, and candying.
Freezing. Scrap the skin. Slice, grate, or chop the ginger. Place sliced ginger in a freezer bag removing as much air as possible. Grated and finely chopped ginger is best frozen in small piles on parchment paper or in ice cube trays and flash frozen (tray method) prior to packaging. Fresh ginger will maintain its best quality in the freezer for 3 months but will remain safe well beyond that time; in fact, ginger that has been kept constantly frozen at 0°F will keep indefinitely.
Storing in Alcohol. Scrap the skin and slice the ginger. Place in a glass jar and cover with vodka or other alcohol. Store in the refrigerator for 1-2 months. The vodka will take on the flavor of the ginger; despite the alcohol, the ginger works well in stir-fries, sauces, soups, and marinades.
Dehydrating. When properly stored, dried ginger will keep for a year. Dried ginger can also be made into ginger powder.
Pickling. Scrap and thinly slice 1 pound of ginger. Pack sliced ginger into a quart jar. Prepare a brine of 1 ¼ cups rice vinegar, ½ cup sugar, ½ cup mirin, and 1 ½ teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil. Pour over ginger. Let cool, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 week and for up to 3 months. (Recipe source: Joy of Cooking, November 2019) Pickled ginger is used as a side dish called gari with sushi.
Fermenting. Similar to pickling, scraped and sliced ginger is place in a sterilized jar. The ginger slices are submerged in a salt, sugar, rice wine, and water solution. A lid is placed on the jar and allowed to set at room temperature for 5-10 days after which it is placed in the refrigerator for keeping up to 3 months. Fermented ginger is more commonly used in Chinese cooking and dried chilies and other ingredients may be added to the ferment.
Candied. Scraped and thinly sliced ginger is first boiled in water and then a sugar syrup. Check out this easy recipe. Candied ginger is often used in baking or eaten as a snack.
Ginger adds flavor and health benefits to many different kinds of foods. Prolong the flavor and benefits by keeping it fresh and usable for as long as possible.
RESOURCES:
The Journey of Ginger and How Ginger Came to Be. Fresh Zen Foods.com
History of the Spice Trade. Silk Road Spcies.ca
How to Grow Tropical Ginger for At-home Spice. Illinois Extension
How Much Is a Thumb of Ginger? The Whole Portion.com
Ways to Prepare and Serve Ginger. Harvest to Table.com
4 Ways to Store Ginger for Months. Cici Li Asian Home Cooking. Cicili.tv
Updated February 2024, mg.
Asparagus and Rhubarb tips
When should I stop cutting my asparagus? How long can I harvest my rhubarb? Is rhubarb that I pull in the summer poisonous? We will be getting these questions from callers very soon.
Allow a new planting of asparagus to grow for a year at least, before the first cutting. During the second spring, it is safe to cut asparagus for three to four weeks. After that time has passed, allow the plant to grow. During year three, it is safe to harvest asparagus until mid-June. The safety factor we mention is safety for the plant. Overharvesting will weaken the plant and may cause plants to be less productive in the future. Harvest asparagus by cutting or snapping the spears when they reach a height of 6 to 8 inches. An asparagus bed that has been cared for well can last 15 years or even longer. Mine has been productive for 38 years and is still going strong.
Harvest rhubarb when the stalks are between 10 and 15 inches tall. Simply hold a stalk near the base and pull it up and to one side. Another option would be to cut the stalks off level with the ground using a sharp knife. Remove the leaves from the stalk right away. After that, rhubarb can be stored in a plastic bag for at least two weeks. Remember that over harvesting rhubarb can damage the plant; never remover more than half the fully developed stalks at one time.
Start a new rhubarb patch by dividing an older, existing patch. It is best to delay harvesting the new patch for the first two years. During the third year, harvest only for four to six weeks; stopping harvest in mid-June. If your rhubarb sends up flower stalks, remove them as allowing the plants to flower will reduce production the next year. Stopping harvest in mid-June also allows the plant to feed the roots and keep the plant strong. You may fertilize the planting with some all-purpose fertilizer in the spring. Use about ½ cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer early in the spring. Remembering to water the rhubarb during long dry summers will help the planting have a long life.
Callers often ask if they can harvest a bit of rhubarb later in the summer. We tell them that if the patch is an older, well-established one then they could pull enough small, tender stalks to make a pie or a crisp. Harvesting more than that can damage the planting. And, no, the rhubarb is not poisonous if pulled mid-summer.
Enjoy those first foods from the garden.
Garnishes
Since Spring has officially arrived, I am already looking forward to warmer weather and Summer! Smoothies are a favorite at our house in the Summer. They are something we, along with our children and grandchildren, all enjoy.
One of the fun things about smoothies is the many fun ways you can garnish them. There are the usual little umbrellas, plastic animals, and fancy straws. Flavored salt is another pretty common garnish. You can use your food processor or a mortar and pestle to grind coarse salt. Moisten the rim of the glass with lemon, lime, or orange juice, or even water, and dip it in the flavored salt. This works with flavored or colored sugar as well. Or try powdered drink mixes or finely chopped coconut for something different.
The idea behind garnishes is to complement or contrast flavors to hint at what’s in the recipe or bring out the flavor. If you use ice as part of your garnish you can freeze colored juices or sodas in cubes which will not dilute your drink. Or freeze berries or slices of fruit in ice cubes. You can also purchase spherical ice cube molds which look unique and attractive in the glass.
Other popular garnishes for fruity drinks are maraschino cherries, pineapple wedges, fruit kabobs, shaved coconut, and candied strips or wheels of zest. It is fun to experiment using a few different citrus zests and twisting or tieing them together.
If you are serving a vegetable smoothie, you can use a mandolin or vegetable peeler to make long, thin strips of cucumber, carrot, or radish to garnish with. Fresh herb leaves or sprigs also add a nice touch. Or try threading sprigs of hardy herbs (rosemary or thyme) through cranberries, blueberries, and raspberries. My favorite vegetable smoothie uses fresh spinach, frozen bananas, avocado, protein powder, and almond milk. I like to garnish it with fresh fruit such as blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries.
Sometimes in place of smoothies my granddaughter likes a “mocktail” which we often like to make layered. To accomplish this you need to use ingredients with contrasting colors and different weights. For a Layered Shirley Temple, mix together 1/2 cup orange juice and 1/2 cup lemon-lime flavored carbonated beverage. Pour the mixture into a tall glass then pour 1 Tablespoon grenadine in and let it sink to the bottom. Maraschino cherries make a nice garnish for this drink. Another layered drink that looks pretty is the Italian Cream Soda. To make this one, mix the fruit flavored syrups you are using with the soda water and pour into a glass. Float half-and-half on top for the layered look and top with whipped cream.
Homemade lollipops are a fun activity to do with children and the lollipops can serve as a stirrer in their smoothies and a snack.
Happy Summer! I hope it will be a long one after the extended Winter we have had!
Lettuce!
This year, it seems like winter has a grip on us and just will not let go. One thing that does make me feel like spring is coming is looking at the lettuce at the grocery store and dreaming about planting some out in my garden.
When I look at the variety of lettuce available at the store, it seems like there must be almost endless number of different types. Actually, there are really only five different types of lettuce.
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- Leaf lettuce (sometimes called loose-leaf lettuce)
- Romaine (sometimes called Cos lettuce)
- Crisphead lettuce
- Butterhead Lettuce
- Stem lettuce (sometimes called Asparagus lettuce)
Leaf lettuce has crisp leaves arranged loosely on a stalk. Most home gardeners that grow lettuce have leaf lettuce in their gardens. It is the most widely planted salad vegetable.
Cos or Romaine lettuce can be easily recognized as it has an upright rather elongated head. It is great as an addition to tossed salads.
Butterhead lettuce may be less familiar but are typically smaller, loose headed, and have soft and tender leaves. This too makes an excellent addition to tossed salads.
Stem lettuce is not always available at our local grocery stores. It is actually an enlarged seed stalk often used in Chinese dishes. Sometimes it is stewed or creamed.
The lettuce that everyone seems to be familiar with is the Crisphead lettuce. This type is found in nearly every grocery store—think iceberg lettuce. It seems odd to me that this most common lettuce is actually one of the most difficult to grow. Start this in the garden very early in the spring, as it is very sensitive to heat. If the lettuce is not mature before the hot weather arrives, the lettuce will often die.
Sometimes callers want to know why the lettuce they grew in the garden is bitter. This often happens when the weather turns warmer and stalks for seeds begin to grow. If you wash the lettuce and store it in the refrigerator for a couple of days, the bitterness will dissipate.
Store your lettuce in the coolest part of your refrigerator. The first shelf near the back wall of the refrigerator is usually the coolest spot. Avoid placing the lettuce near pears, bananas, or apples. These fruits give off ethylene gas, which can cause the lettuce to develop brown spots and decay. Discard any lettuce that has black spots or seems slimy.
Due to the composition of lettuce, (94.9% water) there is no way to successfully preserve it. Enjoy lettuce fresh and often. And remember that spring will be here eventually.
Gardening for Food Pantries
Food insecurity exists to some extent in nearly every community. People who are food insecure not only experience food shortage, but they usually are unable to include fresh fruits and vegetables for a healthy diet because they are out of reach. Either produce costs too much or is not available. It doesn’t have to be this way. By sharing our garden or orchard surplus or planting a dedicated giving garden, home, community, and school gardeners can help food banks, pantries, and community food distribution programs provide fresh produce to ease this problem.
A giving garden can be a whole garden, a row or two as championed by the Garden Writers Association’s Plant a Row for the Hungry, or even one container dedicated to growing healthy (organic if possible) vegetables or fruits for those in need. Or it can be a planned effort such as a Master Gardener garden program done alone or in conjunction with another organization. Every donation, no matter how big or small, makes a difference to someone in need. Besides helping to fill food banks, pantries, and programs, raising vegetables and/or fruits to donate is rewarding for everyone involved, including children, so it can be a family affair.
Before planting, you will want to do a little research. Contact local food banks, pantries, or distribution programs to find out if they will accept local produce, what fruits and vegetables they prefer, and when and where to drop off donations. Once you know the details of donating, purchase seeds or plants for the preferred produce, plant, and tend your garden. Often the most sought after produce is some of the easiest to grow.
Harvest your produce at its prime as you would for yourself and practice safe-handling. Many who are served by food banks and pantries are at a higher risk for foodborne illness as they include children, the elderly, and those with compromised immune systems. Here are a few tips from Michigan State University Extension to minimize food safety risks when donating produce:
- Wash hands for at least 20 seconds with soap and hot water before handling produce.
- If pesticides were used on the product, be absolutely certain that you have followed the instructions on the pesticide label for application and safe harvest times. If you are unsure, discard the produce in the garbage—do not compost, eat or donate it.
- Inspect each item of produce carefully. Discard any items that have signs of insects, bruising, mold, or spoilage. If you wouldn’t buy it, toss it!
- Brush off as much mud and soil as possible from the produce.
- Only use clean, food-grade containers or bags to store and transport produce.
- Keep different types of produce separate.
If you have to wait a day or two to deliver your produce, refrigerate the produce so that it will stay as fresh as possible.
Some food banks offer donation receipts that you can use at tax time so remember to ask for a receipt if that is something you want. Gardeners who donate produce from their gardens or orchards to nonprofit organizations for distribution to people in need are protected from criminal and civil liability by the federal Bill Emerson Good Samaritan Food Donation Act. Under terms of the act, donors are protected from civil and criminal liability should the product donated in good faith later cause harm to the recipient.
For additional help on donating and handling produce, download this free fact sheets from Michigan State University: Donating Produce. If you are interested in a Master Gardener program, contact your county extension office.
Mother Teresa said it best, “If you can’t feed a hundred people, then feed just one.” Donating garden surplus or harvesting from a giving garden can do just that.
Tick Season Has Arrived
Spring is a season I look forward to. It brings green grass, flowers, leaves on the trees, and lots of outdoor time. And unfortunately, ticks are also part of spring. Because of mild winter temperatures and another wet spring, ticks may again be abundant in some locations. Tick populations vary greatly from place to place and year to year. Ticks are most active from March to September with peak activity in April, May, and June. Ticks live and crawl on low-lying vegetation and attach to small mammals, pets, or people as they pass by. Ticks crawl upward to find a place to bite.
There are more than a dozen different tick varieties throughout our area; however, there are three main types usually encountered: the American dog tick, the lone star tick, and the blacklegged tick.
The American Dog Tick is also known as the wood tick. These ticks are found predominantly in grassy fields as well as along walkways and trails. They feed on a variety of warm blooded animals. Without a host, they may survive up to two years but need a host to move to the next stage of their development. They can transmit diseases such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever; however, this disease is not common in Iowa, Minnesota, or South Dakota.
The Lone Star Tick is abundant in the south central and southeastern US and in recent years has become common in Iowa as well. It is recognized by the white dot on the back of the adult female. The adult feeds on large mammals while the immature ticks prefer birds and small mammals. These ticks are usually found in bushy and grassy areas and can transmit the bacteria of several diseases but not Lyme Disease.
The Blacklegged Tick is also known as the deer tick or bear tick and is the known carrier of Lyme Disease. This tick takes two years to complete its life cycle and is found predominately in woody, brushy areas. Both the nymph (about the size of a poppy seed) and adult (1/8” or smaller) stages are capable of transmitting Lyme Disease.
If you are unsure about a tick, you can submit it for identification to the Iowa State University Plant and Insect Diagnostic Clinic. Please click here for submitting information. ISU does not test ticks for pathogens. According to the CDC, testing ticks for pathogen presence is not useful. (https://www.cdc.gov/lyme/removal/)
After being outdoors, make it a routine to check clothing and your body. A good tip is to disrobe in a dry bathtub where ticks that might fall off and can be easily seen and disposed of. If a tick has attached, it is important to remove it quickly and correctly. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommend this method:
- Use fine-tipped tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin’s surface as possible.
- Pull upward with steady, even pressure. Don’t twist or jerk the tick; this can cause the mouth-parts to break off and remain in the skin. If this happens, remove the mouth-parts with tweezers. If you are unable to remove the mouth easily with clean tweezers, leave it alone and let the skin heal.
- After removing the tick, thoroughly clean the bite area and your hands with rubbing alcohol, an iodine scrub, or soap and water.
- Dispose of a live tick by submersing it in alcohol, placing it in a sealed bag/container, wrapping it tightly in tape, or flushing it down the toilet. Never crush a tick with your fingers. (Folk remedies such as burning or coating with polish, detergent or petroleum jelly are of no benefit and may promote transmission of pathogens.)
Clothing should be laundered in as warm of water as possible.
This blog was prepared with the help of Dr. Donald R Lewis, Professor and Extension Entomologist, Iowa State University Department of Entomology.
Tick images are courtesy of and with permission of John Van Dyk, Iowa State University Department of Entomology. http://www.ent.iastate.edu/
A dime is included in the photos to give perspective of size.
Prevent Clothing Moths
The warm weather makes me want to finish up cleaning and storing winter items. I typically wash all our winter coats, hats, mittens, and scarves. The flannel sheets and heavy blankets are clean and stored away. The next thing I need to do is wash or dry-clean all our woolen sweaters and shirts and store them to prevent damage from clothing moths.
I did a little research on clothing moths since it has been a while since we had any questions from AnswerLine callers on this topic. These moths like to lay eggs on woolen and other animal fiber articles of clothing. There are actually two different species of clothing moths.
The case making clothes moth and the webbing clothes moth both appear very similar. They are both yellowish in color and about ¼ inch long. They look a bit fluttery when flying and both avoid the light. Their fully grown larvae are about ½ inch long and white when brownish-black heads. Both will spin a feeding tube or protective case into the fabric that they are feeding upon.
This larval stage is the only life stage when the insect feeds; the eggs and adult moths do not damage clothing. The clothing moths prefer quiet dark areas like closets, attics and seldom used drawers or trunks. If you store an item for a long time in one of those quiet spots the item is particularly at risk. Moths typically will not damage anything in a high traffic or use area.
You may be wondering how to prevent a clothing moth infestation. The best answer to this is to be meticulous in keeping both the storage area and the garments clean. Vacuuming will remove eggs and laundering or dry cleaning will also destroy the eggs. Cleaning items will also remove food stains and body oils which will also attract moths. You may need to brush or leave items in the bright sunlight to get rid of larvae or eggs. Remember to brush the items outdoors so you don’t re-infest your home.
Freezing is another alternative to control the larvae or eggs in an item that you cannot wash or dry-clean. You must leave the item in a freezer set at 0F for at least 48-72 hours. This will be great if you have stuffed animals or items with feathers on them.
After your items are cleaned, store them in a tightly sealed container. You may want to choose a tightly sealed plastic tub. Cedar does contain oil that acts as an insecticide but is only effective if tightly contained. A cedar closet is not typically tight enough to actually kill the moths. Moth balls can be effective if placed inside a tightly sealed container but they are toxic and you may want to avoid using them. The odor of the mothballs is very long lasting so you may choose to just use the tightly sealed tub alone.
It looks like I have a project for this weekend, but once I get everything cleaned it will be safely stored for the summer.
Garage Sale tips part 2
Last spring at about this time we published a blog with some suggestions of items to avoid when buying or selling at a garage sale. That advice seems timely again but we also have some suggestions for those who want to make smart purchases at a sale.
- It is important to know what an item is worth to know if you are indeed getting a bargain. If it is a collectable item, brush up on prices by looking at collectors’ magazines or webpages. Even eBay can be a quick resource.
- Look for brand names that you trust for high quality items. Avoid overpaying on the strength of the brand name alone.
- Be sure that your really need the item. A bargain is not worth it if it is something that will just take up space at your home but not be useful.
- If you’re eyeing a big-league investment—be it a sleek car, a swanky boat, or a hefty appliance—pump the brakes and give yourself some room for contemplation. Think of it as checking out the Invest Diva reviews for your financial decisions. You may even want to consult a mechanic or repair person for advice. The repairman may know what part of the appliance wears the fastest and the expected life of the appliance.
- Be realistic about the actual price of the item. If it requires a lot of repair before it is useable, it may not be a bargain after all.
- Try to arrive at the sale early as you will have more of an opportunity to evaluate the item.
- Don’t assume that the price marked is firm; be willing to negotiate for a lower price. Be realistic about true value of the item.
Taking some time to do a bit of research should help you know a bargain when you see one. Happy shopping.
Disaster help
Dealing with Flooding
The resources on this page and on the Human Sciences Extension and Outreach Finding Answers Now page provide information Iowans can use to plan before a flood situation, recover and clean up from flood water damage, and conserve water.
To find current conditions in Iowa, visit the DNR Current Disasters in Iowa website and follow flood and drought conditions in the state; find resources and assistance information. The national Extension Disaster Education Network (EDEN) provides additional resources for county extension offices on the Floods and Flooding webpage.
Hotlines
- Iowa Concern Hotline: 800-447-1985
Help and referrals for dealing with stress, crisis and loss in times of disaster. - Teenline: 800-443-8336 Available all hours, all days. Personal and health-related information and referral.
Clean Up
- Storm Recovery Guide — information on safety and household cleanup after tornadoes, floods and other disasters. This guide was created by LSU AgCenter and edited by Iowa State University Extension experts for use in Iowa.
- Resources for Your Flooded Home — information to help you get your life back to normal after a flood. The guide was compiled by University of Missouri Extension
- First Steps to Flood Recovery — provided by the Extension Disaster Education Network
- U.S. Small Business Administration disaster loans – SBA provides low-interest disaster loans to homeowners, renters, businesses of all sizes, and most private nonprofit organizations. SBA disaster loans can be used to repair or replace the following items damaged or destroyed in a declared disaster: real estate, personal property, machinery and equipment, and inventory and business assets.
- Making Choices About Cleaning Wet Carpet – Disaster Recovery Series (Iowa State University Extension)
- Inspect Flood-Damaged Appliances – Disaster Recovery Series (Iowa State University Extension)
- Molds
- A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home — provides information and guidance for homeowners and renters on how to clean up residential mold problems and how to prevent mold growth; from the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
- Resolving Mold Problems — (10/2010 webinar) presented by Kenneth Hellevang, North Dakota State University Extension
- Questions? Call AnswerLine at 800-262-3804 or email
- Hiring Contractors After a Disaster — outlines what to look for in a reliable contractor and offers a worksheet for selecting and hiring contractors
- Creating a Healthy Home: A Field Guide for Clean-up of Flooded Homes — tells how to clean up after flooding, but does not describe how to rebuild. By Enterprise Community Partners Inc. and the National Center for Healthy Housing, this guide is meant for do-it-yourselfers and contractors who need to clean up mold in flooded homes before starting to rebuild or renovate
- Repairing Your Flooded Home — gives step-by-step advice for clean up, rebuilding and getting help after a flood; by the American Red Cross and the Federal Emergency Management Agency
- Assessing, Repairing and Rebuilding Basements — a series of ISU Extension publications available to download in PDF format
- Flood Cleanup: Avoiding Indoor Air Quality Problems — discusses problems caused by microbial growth, as well as other potential effects of flooding, on long-term indoor air quality and the steps you can take to lessen these effects with emphasis on residential flood cleanup
- Restoring Flooded Buildings: A Homeowner’s Next Steps — (10/2011 webinar) presented by Kenneth Hellevang, North Dakota State University Extension
- Recovery for Home Landscaping — (09/2011) outlines what to consider when beginning the process of recovering trees, shrubs, perennials, lawns and vegetable gardens
Crops
Iowa State University Resources, Fall 2016
- Wet Weather Creates Challenges for Harvest – Iowa State University, 9/25/2016
- Flood Damaged Crops, Crop Insurance Payments, and Lease Contracts – Iowa State University, 9/24/2016
- Combine Adjustment for Fall Harvest – Iowa State University, 9/21/2016
- How to Minimize Soil Compaction During Harvest – Iowa State University, 9/19/2016
- Management of Flood-Submerged Grain – Iowa State University, 2016
- Managing Flood Damaged Corn for Silage – Iowa State University, 2016
Additional Resources
- Flood Recovery Checklists for Farmsteads – North Dakota State University
- Managing Flood Damaged Crops – Penn State Extension
- Managing Flood Damaged Crops – University of Vermont
- Animal Health Risks From Feeding Flood-Damaged Forages – Penn State Extension
- Salvaging Crops after Flooding – North Dakota State University
- Salvaging Stored Wet Feed and Grain – North Dakota State University
- Corn Ear Rots, Storage Molds, Mycotoxins, and Animal Health – Iowa State University
- Crop Notes by Brian Lang – Iowa State University
- Proper construction of ponds by Allen Pattillo, Iowa State University
Health and Safety
- Garden Produce in Floods
- Ticks and Tick-borne Diseases in Iowa
- When the Home Freezer Stops
- Storm Recovery Guide
- Questions? Call AnswerLine at 800-262-3804 or email answer@iastate.edu
- Water Conservation
Livestock
- Iowa Beef Center’s resources related to flooding and livestock production
- Dairy Team flood related resources
- Financial Assistance for livestock producers
Private Wells
- What Should I Do When My Well Floods — Iowa DNR
- State Hygienic Laboratory at the University of Iowa
Stress Management
Stress
- All About Stress — Stress: Taking Charge | Todo sobre el estrés — Estrés: Cómo tomar el contro
- Coping with Unemployment — Stress: Taking Charge | Cómo LIDIAR con el desempleo — Estrés: Cómo tomar el contro
- Using What You Have to Get What You Want — Stress: Taking Charge | Usa lo que tienes para alcanzar lo que quieres — Estrés: Cómo tomar el contro
- Helping Children Manage Stress — Stress: Taking Charge
- Strengthen your relationship in stressful times
- Show You Care By Listening
- Common Stresses for Parents of Teens — Stress: Taking Charge
- Managing Stress in Later Life Families — Stress: Taking Charge
- Managing Stress in Young Families — Stress: Taking Charge
- Managing Stress in Midlife Families — Stress: Taking Charge
- Controlling Stress | El control del estrés, University of Minnesota Extension
- The Power of Resilience: Coping, SDSU Extension
- Encouraging Family Communication after a Disaster—from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
- Information for family caregivers—from eXtension.org
- Coping with Stress of Natural Disaster — from Mental Health America
- After a Natural Disaster: Coping with Loss—from University of Minnesota Extension
Before Flood Preparations
- Flood Safety Checklist — American Red Cross
- Sandbagging for Flood Protection – eXtension
- Flooding in Iowa – Resources for community floodplain education
Connect with us!
Email: answer@iastate.edu
Phone: (Monday-Friday, 9 am-noon; 1-4 pm)
1-800-262-3804 (in Iowa)
1-800-854-1678 (in Minnesota)