There are two basic types of cocoa: Natural and Dutch-processed. The two have quite different properties based on their individual processing and therefore, behave differently in a recipe. What is the difference?
Cocoa begins as cocoa beans from the cacao tree native to the Amazon rainforest and also grown in Africa. The beans are harvested, fermented and dried initially. Roasting follows to develop flavor. Beans are then ground into a paste called chocolate liquor and pressed to remove most of the fat (cocoa butter) and separate the solids from the fat.
Natural cocoa, also marketed as unsweetened cocoa, is the most commonly found and used cocoa in America. After roasting, grinding, and pressing, the solids are ground into a fine powder. The process results in a powder with an acidic pH level of 5 to 6, a sharp, bitter, citric flavor, and reddish brown color.
Dutch-processed cocoa powder follows the same process as natural cocoa with an extra step. After removal of the cocoa butter, the remaining solids are added to an alkaline solution which neutralizes the cocoa’s acidity. Once neutralized, the solids are dried and ground into a fine powder. The result is a cocoa powder with a neutral pH of about 7, a smooth, soft flavor, and a dark color. Dutch-processed cocoa is more commonly used in Europe and is also known as Dutched chocolate, European-style cocoa, or alkalized cocoa.
The difference in acidity means you cannot always substitute one type of cocoa for another in recipes due to the kind and amount of leavening agents also used in the recipe. In most cases the leavening agent will be baking soda, baking powder, or a combination. Baking soda requires an acid to generate a reaction to give baked products their rise. Natural or unsweetened cocoa powder provides the needed acid for the soda to react and create a rise making natural cocoa a functional ingredient.
Because Dutch-processed cocoa powder has been neutralized, recipes generally use baking powder for the leavening agent. Baking powder is also neutral being made from baking soda and an acid. Baking powder creates its own reaction when combined with liquid and heat. Therefore, the Dutched cocoa powder is merely an ingredient for flavor and color.
Generally, one should use the cocoa specified in the recipe. For most recipes, “cocoa” means natural cocoa powder. When one is unsure, check the recipe. If the recipe calls for baking powder or baking powder predominantly along with some baking soda or another acid ingredient, either type of cocoa can be used. If the recipe calls for baking soda and there are no other acidic ingredients (yogurt, vinegar buttermilk, sour cream, brown sugar, etc.), natural cocoa powder should be used. If the recipe calls for only baking powder, Dutch-processed cocoa should be used.
When faced with a substitution, it is possible to substitute one cocoa for another by adjusting the baking soda or baking powder in the recipes to better match the cocoa being used. Substituting may result in a slightly different product in color, rise, and flavor.
- Substitute natural cocoa powder for Dutched cocoa powder: substitute cocoa 1:1 and replace baking powder by half the amount of baking soda.
- Substitute Dutched cocoa powder for natural cocoa powder: substitute cocoa 1:1, omit baking soda, and replace with an equal to twice the amount of baking powder.
Either cocoa may be used in recipes where no baking soda or baking powder is used such as in hot cocoa, fudge sauce, or frosting. In such recipes, the cocoa is there for flavor and color; it does not have an ingredient functionality.
Combination cocoa products are available. These products will work in most recipes. For example, Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa is a “blend of natural and Dutched cocoas” per the label. Cocoa products are unsweetened, gluten-free, and have a long shelf life.
Sources:
What Are the Differences Between Dutch Process & Natural Cocoa Powder? The Chocolate Professor.
Natural Cocoa vs. Dutch Process Cocoa Powder Explained. Handle the Heat YouTube.
Natural cocoa vs. Dutch Process Cocoa Powder. Handle the Heat.
What’s the Difference Between Cocoa and Dutch-Processed Cocoa? Taste of Home.
Dutch-process vs. natural cocoa. King Arthur Baking.
Update 1/2025. mg
