AnswerLine • Iowa State University Extension and Outreach

What’s Your Elevation? Does It Matter?

February 1, 2022 Marlene Geiger

While residents of most Midwestern States usually don’t think about their elevation, elevation affects cooking and baking as well as home canning. As elevation rises, air pressure falls and water boils at lower temperatures.

When it comes to everyday cooking and baking, there are few noticeable effects of elevation until one reaches 3000 ft. Higher altitudes present several challenges when preparing some foods. At higher altitudes, leavened products using yeast, baking powder/soda, egg whites, or steam rise more rapidly, may collapse, and may not be fully cooked. Because water boils at a lower temperature at higher elevations, foods that are prepared by boiling or simmering will cook at a lower temperature, and it will take longer to cook. High altitude areas are also prone to low humidity, which can cause the moisture in foods to evaporate more quickly during cooking. At altitudes above 3,000 feet, preparation of food may require changes in time, temperature or recipe. For those that find themselves at higher elevations, Colorado State University and New Mexico State University have excellent tips and guidelines for successful baking and cooking.

Because water boils at 212°F at sea level and decreases about 1°F for each 500-ft increase in altitude, adjustments must be made when canning foods at home to ensure home-canned foods are processed safely. The amount of time that jars are held at a certain temperature during canning is important to producing a safe product. Processing times for most recipes are based on elevations of 0-1000 ft unless stated otherwise. When elevations are above 1000 ft, extra time is added for food processed in a water-bath canner. For food processed in a pressure canner, extra pressure is added. Both adjustments are needed to get to their respective safe processing temperatures for high acid and low acid foods.

Each USDA process has an altitude table with it. In this example for Crushed Tomatoes from the USDA Compete Guide to Home Canning, 2015 edition, note that time is increased in 5 minute increments as altitude increases for boiling water canning and pounds of pressure is increased for pressure canning. (Crushed Tomatoes is one example a food that can be processed by either boiling-water bath or pressure.)

While time is adjusted for water-bath canning, pressure regulation differs by the type of pressure canning equipment used—dial- or weighted-gauge canner as noted in the chart. (To be considered a pressure canner, the USDA recommends that a canner be large enough to hold at least 4 quart jars.) Pressure canners have either a dial gauge to indicate the pressure or a weighted gauge to indicate and regulate the pressure. Weighted gauges are designed to “jiggle” several times a minute or to rock gently when they are maintaining the correct pressure. If a dial-gauge canner is used, the gauge needs to be checked each year for accuracy. If the gauge reads high or low by more than two pounds at 5, 10 or 15 pounds pressure, it should be replaced. If it is less than two pounds off in accuracy, adjustments can be made to be sure you have the required pressure in your canner [NCHFP]. Gauge testing is available at some county extension offices; contact your local extension office for testing availability. See Testing dial pressure canner gauges for more information [University of Minnesota Extension].

Elevation does matter in all aspects of food preparation, but especially so in home canning. Before beginning the canning process, it should be a priority to find and know your elevation. It is quite easy to find your elevation using one of these sources:

Visit a web page about your town or city;
Use an online tool such as https://whatismyelevation.com;
Use a smartphone app such as My Elevation;
Refer to an elevation map for your state showing approximate elevations such as this one by Iowa State University Extension and Outreach from the Preserve the Taste of Summer series.

To learn more about elevation, watch this YouTube video by UnL Extension Food & Fitness.

To learn more about safe water-bath or pressure canning practices, watch these videos produced by South Dakota State University:

How to Use a Water Bath Canner video
How to Use a Pressure Canner video

Marlene Geiger

I am a graduate of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln with a BS in Home Economics Education and Extension and from Colorado State University with a MS in Textiles and Clothing. I enjoy spending time with family and friends, gardening, quilting, cooking, sewing, and sharing knowledge and experience with others.

June 23, 2022

Equipment, Food Preparation, Food Preservation, Food Safety Elevation

Potential Deadly Canning Mistakes

August 17, 2021 Marlene Geiger 14 Comments

Home canning is an excellent way to preserve garden produce and share it with family and friends, but it can be risky—or even deadly—if not done correctly and safely. The potential culprit is botulism.

Although it’s a rare occurrence, botulism is a serious illness caused by a bacterium toxin, Clostridium botulinum, that attacks the body’s nerves. It can cause difficulty breathing, muscle paralysis, and even death. Clostridium botulinum is commonly found in soil, on raw fruits and vegetables, on meat and fish, and many other foods and surfaces. Improperly home-canned, preserved, or fermented foods can provide the right conditions for the bacteria to make the toxin. One cannot see, smell or taste the toxin, yet if ingested, even a small amount can be deadly.

To avoid concerns about botulism, steer clear of these canning mistakes [1].

Making Up Your Own Recipe
Use only up-to-date, scientifically tested recipes approved by the USDA and follow directions exactly. Good sources are The Complete Canning Guide, the National Center for Home Food Preservation, So Easy to Preserve, and land-grant university publications. Without scientific testing, there is no way to know how long the product needs to be processed to be safe.

Adding Extra Starch, Flour or Other Thickeners
Starches slow the rate of heat penetration into the product and can result in under processing. Clear Jel® is recommended as a thickener for canned pie fillings. If a product is not as thick as desired going into the jar, it can be thickened at the time of use.

Adding Extra Onions, Chilies, Peppers, or Other Vegetables to Salsas or Sauces
Tested recipes specify the quantity of vegetables allowed to keep the salsa or sauce within the safe pH range. Most vegetables are low-acid and adding extra vegetables will dilute the acidity and result in an unsafe product. While it is dangerous to add more vegetables to salsa and sauce recipes, fewer may be used for a milder flavor. Extra ingredients can be added at the time of use.

Canning by Electric Pressure Cooker, Oven, Open Kettle, Microwave, or Dishwasher
Boiling water bath or pressure are the only approved canning methods. Any other method should be avoided as foods will be under processed and unsafe. Heat is conducted by air in an oven which is less efficient than water or steam. As a result product temperature never exceeds the boiling point; jar breakage is also a possibility. Open-kettle canning, placing hot food in jars and sealing with no further heat treatment, has been considered an unsafe home canning practice since the 1980’s due to insufficient heat to destroy bacteria [2]. Microwaved food reaches 212°F but heating is not uniform; in additon, there is a danger of jar explosion within the microwave oven or as food is being removed [2]. The water temperature of the dishwasher’s cleaning and rinsing cyles is far below that required to kill harmful microorganisms. While electric pressure cookers use pressure for cooking, they do not meet the appliance standards for home pressure canning, even if marketed as safe for pressure canning. Washington State Extension explains all the reasons why electric pressure cookers should not be used for home canning in Canning in Electric Pressure Cookers.

Not Making Altitude Adjustments
The temperature at which water boils is affected by barometric pressure which is reduced with elevation or altitude. When water doesn’t reach the normal boiling temperature, undesired pathogens may survive the canning process. These pathogens could multiply in the canned food and cause sickness. Processing times and temperatures for recipes in most canning resources are based on canning at an elevation of 1,000 feet above sea level or lower. When canning at a higher elevation, one must add more pounds of pressure for pressure canning and more processing time for water bath canning. See charts prepared by South Dakota State University Extension for altitude adjustments.

Not Venting the Pressure Canner
Trapped air inside a pressure canner lowers the temperature obtained for a given pressure and results in under processing. To be safe, the USDA recommends that all pressure canners be vented 10 minutes before they are pressurized.

To vent a canner, leave the vent pipe (steam vent) uncovered (or manually open the petcock on some older models) after you fill the canner and lock the canner lid in place. Heat the canner on high until the water boils and generates steam that can be seen escaping through the open vent pipe or petcock. When a visible funnel-shape of steam is continuously escaping the canner, set a timer for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes of continuous steam, you can close the petcock or place the counterweight or weighted gauge over the vent pipe to begin pressurizing the canner. [3]

Failure to Acidify Canned Tomatoes
Because the pH of tomatoes is an unknown, the USDA recommends that bottled lemon juice be used to lower the pH of the product to be unquestionably safe.

Rushing the Pressure Canner Cool-Down Time
The natural cool-down of the canner is part of the tested processing time. Hurrying this process will result in under-processed food and siphoning of liquid from the jars. It may also cause jar breakage.

Allowing “Hot Pack” Foods to Cool in Jars before Processing
Processing times are based on the food being hot at the beginning of the processing. Foods not starting hot could be under processed. Further, the rule, “hot foods hot and cold foods cold” applies; when foods are held between 40 and 140°F, bacteria can grow rapidly.

Processing Low-Acid Foods in a Water Bath
Canning low-acid foods requires special care. This includes red meats, fish, poultry and all vegetables (except for acidified tomatoes). Low-acid foods can support the production of the deadly botulism toxin if these foods are not processed properly in a pressure canner. A pressure canner heats food to high temperatures (240-250 degrees F or higher) and destroys the spores that produce the botulism toxin. A boiling water bath canner, which can be used for canning pickles or fruit, heats food to boiling temperature (212 F), which is not high enough to ensure safety for canning vegetables and other low-acid foods.[4]

Home canning is perfectly safe but needs to be done correctly. If you are new to canning (or need a refresher), check out Safe Home Canning Basics, by Minnesota University Extension to learn about preventing botulism and other key issues to be aware of when preserving food by home canning.

Marlene Geiger

February 24, 2022

Equipment, Food Preservation, Food Safety Canning mistakes

14 Comments

Cleaning Your Iron

February 23, 2021 Marlene Geiger 4 Comments

When was the last time you cleaned your iron? Cleaning an iron can be one of those tasks that is easily forgotten or put off. That is, until the iron seems to be sticking to fabric, spraying dirty water, or leaving black spots on your clothing. It is not uncommon for dirt, dust, lint, detergent, and spray starch to build up on the soleplate of the iron or for water inside the water reservoir used for steam to cause dirty spots. For those who sew or do fabric crafts, there is often the sticky residue from fusible interfacings or other fusible/iron-on products.

The frequency with which an iron needs to be cleaned depends on frequency of use and/or how it is used. At any rate, a cleaning or maintenance schedule that meshes with the frequency or use is important to keeping the iron functioning properly. If maintaining a schedule is too much, then a good rule of thumb is to clean as soon as a problem is detected—iron doesn’t glide as it should or steam doesn’t come out or sprays or spurts out rusty or black droplets onto the cloth. All are signs that gunk has accumulated on the soleplate, the steam outlets are clogged, or tap water mineral deposits have accumulated in the water reservoir.

Fortunately, cleaning an iron isn’t that difficult. If you’ve ever Googled “how to clean an iron”, you will find many shared methods. And if you have a method that works for you, by all means continue on as the bottom line is to achieve a properly functioning iron. If you are new to iron cleaning or unsure of how to proceed with your iron, the best route is to consult the owner’s manual as there may be specific guidelines for the kind of soleplate (stainless steel, ceramic, titanium, or non-stick), water reservoir, or self-cleaning feature unique to your iron. (If a manual is lost, often times they can be found online.)

Cleaning the Soleplate

Various options exist for cleaning the soleplate. I will review the three most common recommended by iron manufacturers. In all cases, never use anything that could scratch the soleplate.

Hot Iron Cleaners. Cleaning pastes are found almost anywhere fabric or laundry products are sold and usually restore the iron’s soleplate to perfect condition. They are nontoxic, nonflammable, and nonabrasive. When the pastes are applied to a very hot iron soleplate, they quickly and easily remove starch, detergent, and fusing residue. These cleaners dissolve the residue either by ironing over the cleaner on an old towel or by squeezing the cleaner onto the soleplate and wiping off residue with an old towel or cloth. (Rowenta offers a product specific to Rowenta irons for consumers who choose to use it.) One must be careful to remove the paste from the steam vents as well. (Cotton swabs work great for vent cleaning.)

Iron Cleaning Cloths. Cleaning cloths (usually in packs of 10) are designed to be disposable and as an alternative to hot iron cleaning pastes for quick clean ups. They dissolve and remove any residue by simply running the cloth over a hot soleplate. They usually work best for less soiled soleplates or for very regular clean up. Because there is no paste involved, they do not clog the steam vents.

Baking Soda and Water or Vinegar. Both baking soda and vinegar are common household cleaners. They also work wonders as a natural scouring agent to remove grime from an iron’s soleplate. One begins by mixing baking soda with distilled water or vinegar to make a paste (approximate 2:1 proportions of soda to liquid). Apply the paste with an old tooth brush to a cool, unplugged iron. Scrub gently with the brush to loosen the residue; wipe residue away with a microfiber cloth until the soleplate is cleaned. Like the commercial pastes, the steam vents must be cleaned, too.

Hot vinegar applied to a microfiber cloth works like an iron cleaning cloth if the residue is light.

After cleaning, fill the reservoir with water, heat, and run the iron over an old towel or cloth, pressing the spray button several times to insure the soleplate and vents are clean before ironing clothing.

Cleaning the Water Reservoir

When cleaning the water reservoir, discretion is needed. Steam iron reservoirs need to be cleaned out often to ensure that the appliance doesn’t leave rusty or black water marks on clothing or fabric, performs properly, minimizes build up that may damage clothing, and, thereby, extends the life of the appliance. Whenever possible, follow manufacturer’s directions.

Distilled water is commonly and safely used for cleaning the reservoir and vents. While there are many distilled water and vinegar recipes suggested for reservoir cleaning, most manufacturers caution against the use of vinegar. In a previous blog, AnswerLine suggested a method of filling the reservoir with distilled water and allowing the iron to self-steam out the minerals, lint, and other accumulations in the reservoir and vents.

A commercial iron cleaner is another option to decalcify and remove lime and mineral build-up from steam irons and vents. However, some iron manufacturers will void the warranty if you use them as they can be harsh and cause additional damage.

Keep the Iron Working at Its Best

Here’s some tips to protect and keep an iron working at its best.

Whenever possible, use distilled water. Tap water, even when filtered, contains minerals that can clog, corrode, or damage the iron resulting in rusty or black steam or spray.
Fill the iron with water before plugging in and while cool.
Empty the reservoir before storing the iron—especially if it isn’t used frequently.
Store in an upright position. This will prevent water from leaking if water is left in the reservoir and avoid scratching the soleplate.
Avoid pressing or ironing over zippers, snaps, decals, pins, or any screen printing without using a pressing cloth to avoid scratching the soleplate or adhering paint or plastics to the soleplate.

Marlene Geiger

February 19, 2021

Cleaning, Equipment, Textiles cleaning, Iron

4 Comments

A Look at Electric Casseroles

November 3, 2020 Marlene Geiger

What are electric casseroles? How should they be used?

*Taco Casserole made in a slow cooker casserole.*

Electric casseroles are 9×13-in, rectangular crockery slow cookers. Known as casserole cookers or slow cooker casseroles, they work like a slow cooker but are ideal for preparing favorite casserole dishes, lasagna, desserts and more that one would ordinarily bake in the oven because they do not present well when made in a traditional slow cooker. Like a slow cooker, they are ideal for make-ahead meals to simplify mealtime for busy families.

There are at least two manufacturers that make casseroles cookers—Crock-Pot® and Chefman. Hamilton Beach also offered one but it appears to no longer be available. These appliances have a 3.5 quart, stoneware, oven-safe, crock insert that is removable for easy cleaning or for actually baking in the oven. All of the models come with a locking lid system for easy transport without spills making them safe and ideal for carry-in or potluck meals. Like a slow cooker, they reduce heat in the kitchen and free up oven space when the kitchen is on overload. Crock-Pot® offers both a manual setting (high, low, warm) unit as well as a programmable unit; the Chefman appliance offers only manual features. The stoneware crocks are dishwasher-safe making cleanup a breeze.

Should one need to put the removable insert into the oven for baking, reheating, melting toppings or browning, Crock Pot® asserts that the crockery insert can be used safely in the microwave or the oven up to 400ºF without the lid. The Chefman website says the crock insert can be used over an open flame on the stovetop to simmer sauce, sauté vegetables, or brown meat before slow cooking for greater depth of flavor. It can also be used in an oven to roast, bake, or reheat.

Any recipe that one would make in a traditional slow cooker will work in the casserole cookers. Also any casserole recipe designed for the oven will work as long as additional time is allowed for cooking. For the most part, the cooking time required of a traditional slow cooker is the same for the casserole cooker. However, timing may vary some depending upon manufacturers and different appliances.

Here’s some ideas to get one thinking about how to use a slow cooker casserole: corn casserole, baked beans, scalloped potatoes and ham, funeral potatoes, spaghetti and meat balls, beef and noodles, enchiladas, tater tot casserole, bbq chicken, apple or fruit crisps, lasagna, French toast casserole, egg bake, vegetable gratins, and green bean casserole. Cookies can even be baked in the crocks. There are any number of slow cooker recipe books available—a cookbook for everyone, every cuisine, and every occasion—as well as numerous websites with ideas and recipes.

While the casserole cooker option likely won’t replace the traditional slow cooker, it is a great option for slow cooking recipes that are more casserole-like. I have one and find it quite useful, especially when the family comes home.

Marlene Geiger

January 8, 2021

Equipment, Food Preparation Slow cookers

Safe Canning Amid Canning Supply Shortages

August 18, 2020 Marlene Geiger 49 Comments

Gardens are at the height of production in the Midwest and food preservation is in high gear. However, many home canners are finding the shelves stripped of canning lids, jars, pectin, vinegar, and the various spices needed for pickling and canning. Even canners, pressure and water bath, are in short supply. Like all other shortages experienced in this year of COVID 19, it is a matter of supply for an unanticipated demand along with a slow-down in manufacturing due to either worker safety or shortages of raw materials.

Jars. While jars are in demand, canners may be able to find jars in storage among friends and relatives or in second hand stores. If older canning jars are used, an inspection for nicks, chips and cracks before buying or using them is a must. A damaged or disfigured jar should never be used for canning food because they are not safe or they could break during processing, wasting time and food. While true canning jars are USDA recommended and preferred, the National Center for Home Food Preservation says that commercial glass pint- and quart-size mayonnaise or salad dressing jars may be used with new two-piece lids for canning acid foods (food that might be processed in a boiling water bath). However, one should expect more seal failures and jar breakage. These jars have a narrower sealing surface and are tempered less than Mason jars, and may be weakened by repeated contact with metal spoons or knives used in dispensing mayonnaise or salad dressing. Seemingly insignificant scratches in glass may cause cracking and breakage while processing jars in a canner. Mayonnaise-type jars are not recommended for use with foods to be processed in a pressure canner because of excessive jar breakage. Other commercial jars with mouths that cannot be sealed with two-piece canning lids are not recommended for use in canning any food at home.

Canning lids. Canning lids are designed for one-time use and should not be reused for canning. The sealing compound becomes indented by the first use preventing another airtight seal. Screw bands may be reused unless they are badly rusted or the top edge is pried up which would prevent a proper seal. Previously used canning lids can be used to top jars of freezer jam, homemade mixes, dried goods, and other non-canned foods. As long as the lids aren’t rusty, they’re fine to use again and again for any purpose that doesn’t involve canning. The Jarden (Newell) Company, manufacturer of Ball products, says that their lids, unused, have a storage life of five years beyond purchase; therefore, if stored lids are in that range, they can be used. Reusable canning lids like those made by Tattler or Harvest Guard may be a desperate alternative; they have mixed reviews by canners and are not yet recommended by the USDA. (A study on Tattler reusable lids began in 2013 at The National Center for Home Food Preservation. Even with grants received in 2014 and 2015 for the study, it appears that the study is still ongoing as there have been no reported results.) If new lids are not to be found, give consideration to freezing or dehydrating rather than canning.

Canners. Canners are of three types, boiling water bath, pressure, and steam. A boiling water bath canner is a large, deep pot or vessel with a lid and a rack used for high acid food preservation; if a new one can’t be purchased, a second-hand one is fine as long as it isn’t rusty or chipped. A pressure canner is used for low acid foods and is either a weighted gauge or dial gauge type. An older pressure canner may or may not be safe. An older pressure canner should only be purchased or used if it is in excellent condition—no imperfections or warping with a lid that fits perfectly and locks easily. Pressure canners build pressure when they are used, and in extreme cases, could explode if the canner is defective or damaged. More importantly would be their ability to process food safely. At a minimum, the sealing ring should be replaced and the gauge on a dial gauge type be checked by a trained professional. Dial gauges on pressure canners need to be tested each year against a calibrated ‘master’ gauge. Weighted gauges do not need to be tested as they do not go out of calibration. An atmospheric steam canner is newer to the scene and can take the place of a water-bath canner. According to University of Wisconsin-Madison researchers steam canners may be used safely to can naturally acid foods such as peaches, pears, and apples, or acidified-foods such as salsa or pickles as long as specified criteria is met; a steam canner is not recommended for low-acid vegetables and meat.

Pectin. Some jams and jellies can be made without pectin. The National Center for Home Food Preservation has information and recipes for making jelly and jams without commercially prepared pectin.

Vinegar. If the recipe does not specify a particular type of vinegar, white or cider vinegar may be used safely as long as it is labeled as 5% acidity or labeled as 50 grain. Apple cider vinegar will impart a different flavor and color when substituted for white vinegar. Specialty vinegars such as red or white wine vinegar, malt vinegar, balsamic, and other flavored vinegars should only be used when specified in a research-tested recipe.

Assorted Pickling Spices. It may not be necessary to get fresh seeds and spices if there is some on your shelf. Commercially prepared and packaged spices, stored properly, such as mustard seed, celery seed, dill seed, allspice, and cinnamon sticks, generally have a shelf life of 3-4 years. Pickling spice is good for up to 3 years. Spices do loose potency over time. To test whether a spice is still potent enough to be effective, rub or crush a small amount in your hand, then taste and smell it. If the aroma is weak and the flavor is not obvious, the spice should not be used as it will not flavor as intended. Spices may be available from online sites when no longer available in local stores.

The right equipment (and vinegar) is a must to safely preserve food by canning. Look to friends and family, online and non-conventional sources for help with acquiring supplies and equipment. Whatever is found, do carefully follow the suggestions contained herein to preserve safely.

Marlene Geiger

September 27, 2020

Consumer Management, Equipment, Food Preservation, Food Safety Gardening

49 Comments

Exploring Portable Burners for Canning

August 4, 2020 Marlene Geiger 871 Comments

AnswerLine gets questions each year about using a portable burner (hot plate) for canning. Usually the question comes when a switch has been made to an electric cooktop from a gas range or when an electric-coil range is replaced with a smooth (glass) cooktop, either radiant heat or induction, and the way of canning needs to change to prevent cracking the cooktop, fusing the canner to the cooktop, or under processing of the canned product posing a food safety risk.

Industry has answered the call for canners appropriate for induction cooktops with several options available. That aside, consumers still have valid concerns about the weight of canners and the intense heat on the surface along with scratching if the canner is slid or drug across the cooktop. When the options are beyond using the new cooktop or installing a second electric coil or gas burner range top, perhaps it makes sense to purchase a portable electric or gas burner.

Earlier this year, I, too, was exploring acceptable heat options for canning. While I have yet to purchase a new range, my 30-plus year old electric-coil range struggled last summer with the canner challenge; the struggle was sufficiently challenging to make me consider new options before getting into canning this year. In addition, I know that when I make that purchase, it will likely be a smooth electric cooktop and my pressure and water bath canners will no longer work.

The National Center for Home Food Preservation (NCHFP) offers these guidelines for selecting a portable burner for canning purposes:

– The burner must be level, sturdy, and secure. Look for enough height to allow air to flow under the burner, but not such that it will become unsteady with a full, heavy canner resting on it.

– Look for a burner diameter that is no more than 4 inches smaller than the diameter of your canner. In other words, the canner should not extend more than 2 inches from the burner on any side. For heating a typical 12-inch diameter canner, the coil must be at least eight inches in diameter.

– For electric burners, you want the wattage to be about equal to that of a typical household range large burner which is 1750W or higher. The best portable heaters found run 1500W which are deemed to be acceptable.

– You want the burner to have housing that will hold up to the high heat under the canner for long heating periods, and not damage counter tops with reflected heat.

An outdoor heat source such as a gas grill is not recommended by The National Center for Home Food Preservation for various reasons; however, a portable burner can be used outside as long as it is in a location away from wind, yet well ventilated.

In addition to advice from NCHFP, I found a lot of researched based information along with references at the Healthy Canning website.

Having read all the recommendations, I began to explore my options looking at commercial burners used in restaurants. While inexpensive, most home units are too light weight and have insufficient wattage to be considered for canning. The commercial units seemed to meet the NCFHP recommendations and received the highest recommendations from canning and restaurant users. My search narrowed to two models made/sold by the same company. One had a cast-iron burner and the other a coil burner. In the end I chose the one with a cast-iron burner knowing that it would take longer to heat and cool, but seemed to offer the most stability.

Recently my portable burner made its canning debut as a heat source to water bath a batch of raspberry jam. It worked very well for this application. The temperature was easy to control. Because the jam recipe only made four half-pints of jam, I did not use the big water bath canner so that test is still to be made as I move into canning season along with the pressure canner. Besides using the portable burner for my primary intended use of canning, it has come in handy to heat water for defrosting my downstairs freezer, keeping food warm for outdoor meals, and being that ‘extra burner’ when needed.

While not an option for me, an electric water bath canner sold by Ball^® may be a good investment for water bath only canners says Karen Blakeslee, Kansas State University Food Safety Specialist. This is a stand-alone canner with its own heater/burner system much like an electric pressure cooker. It can also be used to make soups or stews. However, an electric pressure cooker is not recommended by the USDA or NCHFP for canning of any sort despite information one may find on various websites.

UPDATES: The portable burner that I purchased got a work out during the summer canning season and worked perfectly for all my pressure and water bath canning. Temperature control was easy and very consistent. Perhaps it was my imagination, but I also think it reduced the amount of kitchen heat that comes with canning.

Marlene Geiger

July 26, 2021

Consumer Management, Equipment, Food Preservation

871 Comments

Kitchen Mixer Scraping Tip

February 6, 2020 Marlene Geiger

Last year I acquired my mother’s Kitchen Aid® Food Preparer (Mixer). I didn’t really need it as I’ve had a perfectly good mixer of another brand for many years. My mixer did all the chores I asked of it and I was completely comfortable with its operation. However, I just couldn’t bring myself to sell or donate my mother’s prized possession. She purchased it in 1978 for a sum of money that she worked diligently to pay for by decorating cakes. She loved it and over the many years that she owned it, it was well used to prepare foods of many kinds.

Wanting to love this piece of equipment as my mother had (and so many friends do), I boxed up my mixer, put it in storage, and set my mother’s mixer in its place. I had never used a Kitchen Aid® before so I was a novice; fortunately, there was an instruction manual to go with it which guided me on which attachment for what and what speeds to use, etc. I continue to learn as I try new things with it. While it can do many operations quite nicely, I was befuddled and frustrated with scraping down the sides of the bowl while creaming butter and sugar or any other operation requiring scraping. With my previous mixer, I was able to scrape along the inside of the bowl with a rubber/silicon scrapper anytime needed. Not so with my new friend; every time the bowl needed scraping, I had to stop the machine, lift the head, scrape, and restart the operation.

As if in answer to my frustration, I spotted an online Food and Wine article sharing information about a new Kitchen Aid® attachment, the Flex Edge Beater, designed specifically to take care of my problem. The Flex Edge Beater is the classic beating attachment with a sturdy rubber/silicon outer blade wrapped completely or half-way around the blade for the purpose of continuously scraping the sides of the bowl and bring ingredients into the batter.

The article gave some good reasons for using the new attachment with the first being my No 1 problem: no more stopping and lifting to scrape the bowl! It also mentioned thoroughly combined ingredients (no more flour or other ingredient left at the bottom of the bowl), reduced strain on the motor, and using the beater in place of a spatula to wipe out the bowl. Sold!

I was not able to find the beater in any of my local stores so I ordered one online. I am pleased to say that the new flex beater lives up to its promotion and I am indeed beginning to love the new (old) machine.

Reference to any commercial product, process, or service, or the use of any trade, firm, or corporate name is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement, recommendation, or certification of any kind. Persons using such products assume responsibility for their use and should make their own assessment of the information and whether it is suitable for their intended use in accordance with current directions of the manufacturer.

Marlene Geiger

January 17, 2020

Equipment, Food Preparation

Keeping Your Clothes Dryer Safe

April 22, 2019 Marlene Geiger 3 Comments

Most people don’t think about their clothes dryer as being a potentially dangerous appliance in their home. Unfortunately, dryers are the source of thousands of house fires each year as well as some household mold issues. With just a little regular cleaning and maintenance, you can protect your family and home from these dangers.

It doesn’t matter if you have an electric or gas clothes dryer. The problem is lint. Lint builds up in the lint trap, inside the vent hose and duct work, and inside the vent. Whenever this happens, there is a reduction in air flow resulting in reduced drying efficiency. Lint is also responsible for causing humidity levels to increase around vents and duct work which in turn can cause mildew and mold to develop in walls and insulation. And most importantly, lint is combustible and causes fires. Failure to clean the dryer is the leading cause of home dryer fires.

Here’s some tips for keeping your dryer, duct work, and vent as lint free as possible.

Clean the lint trap after every load or at the very least, at the end of a laundry cycle. If you use fabric softener sheets, check the screen for clogging as some sheets will emit enough residue that the screen becomes clouded and tacky. Should the screen be clogged, submerge the lint screen in hot water, soapy water and clean the screen with a bristle brush to get rid of the residue.
Invest in a dryer lint brush. These long-handled flexible brushes are available at most hardware stores and allow one to clean areas that cannot be reached by hand down inside of the dryer, hoses, and ducts. You may be surprised by the chunks of lint that the brush pulls out. After removing the lint filter and cleaning with the brush, run the dryer on “air only” after using the dryer brush. This will bring up any lint that might have been dislodged but didn’t cling to the brush.
Unplug and pull the dryer out at least once a year and vacuum any dust and lint that might have accumulated around the dryer, back of the dryer, floor, cabinets, etc. While the dryer is out, remove the duct hose or duct. You may need a screwdriver or pliers to remove the connecting clip or steel clamp. Use the dryer brush inside the dryer opening to remove the lint accumulation. Do the same with the hose or duct. If you have a long duct to the outside as I do, you will have to rig a longer handle onto the brush.
Replace the duct hose if you have a white or silver vinyl duct hose. All building codes now require metal or aluminum ducting for clothes dryers. The ducting may be rigid or flexible. If flexible aluminum ducting is used, it should be cleaned more often as it tends to collect more lint along the ridges.
Lastly, clean the exterior vent. This is usually done from the outside of the home by lifting the flaps. Using your hands or a brush, removed as much lint as possible. Most of the flaps on the exterior vent can be removed to make cleaning easier. Replace the flaps if they have been removed and make sure that they open properly.

A little dryer cleaning in a timely manner will greatly reduce the risk of fire. Further, avoid starting the dryer before going to bed and running it while no one is at home.

For more information see the safety alert from the Consumer Products Commission, https://www.cpsc.gov/PageFiles/118931/5022.pdf

Additional flyers like the one at the beginning of the blog are public domain publications and available for download from FEMA at https://www.usfa.fema.gov/prevention/outreach/clothes_dryers.html

UPDATE: Since the blog was written, a dryer vent cleaning kit has become available at many hardware stores. Made by various manufacturers, the kit includes a brush head attacheed to flexible plastic rods that fit into a power drill head. A basic kit costs about $20; if you have a long vent, additional plastic rods can be purchased to extend the tool to the desired length. I purchased the kit and some extra rods to clean my vents and found the product to be amazing. Jeff Rosen of the Rosen Reports showed how the cleaning tool works.

Marlene Geiger

August 1, 2021

Consumer Management, Equipment, Safety around the home

3 Comments

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