Category: Textiles

Celebrating 50 Years! A Pioneering Experiment in Education via a Helpline

Marlene Geiger 4 Comments

Since March 1, 1975, Iowa State University Extension and Outreach (known as ISU Home Economics Extension in 1975) has provided a toll-free telephone answering service known as AnswerLine. AnswerLine was founded as an experiment in phone education as envisioned by an Iowa State University Master’s student, Mary Jo Knight Williams (MS, 1978). We could not be more excited to celebrate our history, our success, and all the accomplishments achieved thanks to the many dedicated staff members, clients, and extension partners over the years.

Dial an answer. If the kids have just spilled ink on the carpeting, you're looking for a beef jerky recipe or you want to get rid of the odor of Uncle Harry's cigar, and you need the answers in a hurry what do you do? Just call Mary Jo Williams at the toll free number 1-800-262-3804.
Image Source: Ames Daily Tribune, April 19, 1975, p6. Read full article.

The purpose of the thesis project was to determine the usefulness and effects of providing home economics educational information via a telephone answering service. William’s project was designed to help county home economists answer their daily routine calls to give them more time for program development and presentation and to answer consumer calls more quickly. Ten counties were included in a six-month pilot program using an in-WATS (Wide Area Telephone Service) line on a voluntary basis. Promotion of use was left to the counties.

A home economics extension BS graduate of the University of Missouri at Columbia and former extension family economist and management specialist, Williams served as the first operator. One call was received on the first day of operation with the call volume growing exponentially thereafter. Questions were answered using reference books, home economics subject specialists, and file cards of repeated questions. When the trial period ended in September 1975, it was determined that the service successfully provided the kind of help that both county extension staff and citizens wanted so the service was made available to all Iowa counties on a voluntary basis with promotion and use left to the counties. The service was never intended to replace the county home economists who also called upon AnswerLine to help with answers to more difficult questions. Early calls included questions about “food safety, food preparation, food preservation, nutrition, clothing care, and alterations.” 1 The helpline was also seen as another tool for extension outreach adding to the already well-established formats of meetings, workshops, fairs, radio and television programs and interviews, newspapers, and mass mailings.

While no one in 1975 could have predicted the current landscape of technology and the many events of the past years that have shaped us, we are thrilled to celebrate this milestone anniversary and our history of service to Iowans and Minnesotans (since 2003). Despite 50 years of history, our goals have not changed since inception:

  • Provide a quick response to consumers’ home and family questions.
  • Provide unbiased, research-based answers to consumers’ questions.

In the coming months, watch the blog for additional stories about AnswerLine’s history and development from some of the people who have been the voice on the other end of the line. The lines remain open 9 am to Noon and 1-4 pm, Monday through Friday. Calls are toll-free for Iowa at 1-800-262-3804; toll-free for Minnesotans at 1-800-854-1678, or at 515-296-5883 for anyone.

______________________________

1 Williams, Mary Jo Knight.  Educational Effects of a Home Economics Telephone Answer Service in Iowa.  MS thesis, 1978, p8.
Ames Daily Tribune, April 19, 1975, p6. Dial an answer.

Marlene Geiger

I am a graduate of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln with a BS in Home Economics Education and Extension and from Colorado State University with a MS in Textiles and Clothing. I enjoy spending time with family and friends, gardening, quilting, cooking, sewing, and sharing knowledge and experience with others.

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Dealing with Sport Stains

Marlene Geiger 2 Comments

Spring youth baseball, softball, football, and soccer games are in full swing—rain or shine! While it’s fun to watch the kids play and give it their all, it’s not so fun for the moms and dads who clean the uniforms after the game. Parents know that just one base slide or a slip and sprawl on the grass will result in serious laundry room time. Add wet fields, sweat, blood, sports drinks, and other hard play stains!

Baseball player sliding into home base

Sport pants stained with hard play–dirt, grass, sweat, blood, and more, mean work in the laundry room. For best results and to minimize the work and time spent cleaning them, sports pants should be sent to the laundry room as soon as possible after the game. The longer sweat and stains sit, the harder they are to clean. While methods and products may differ for those who clean uniforms, there are 5 musts:

  • get to the stains ASAP,
  • avoid using chlorine bleach,
  • wash alone or with like colors,
  • wash inside out to reduce potential peeling of letters or numbers, and
  • air dry.

Textile experts would concur with the “mom” advice. Further, they recommend that any stain removal should begin by

  1. identifying the fiber type and
  2. determining the stain type.

Depending on the fiber or stain type, the stain removal process differs.

Fiber

Most sport uniforms are made of polyester or a blend of cotton and polyester, with polyester being widely used for youth sport uniforms. Polyester uniforms are extremely durable and exhibit moisture wicking properties, allowing sweat to wick away from the skin for more efficient evaporation. Polyester’s downside is its affinity for oil-based stains and shrinkage with heat. Check the garment tag to determine the fiber content and note if spandex is part of the mix. (Some caution may be needed with spandex as it may not take the usual harsh treatment required to get the uniforms clean.)

Stain Type

Most sport-induced stains are either protein stains or dye stains. Protein-based stains include blood, sweat, grass, mud and most dirt; protein stains can be time-consuming to remove as they usually involve some soaking time. Grass stains can also be a dye stain as the stain comes from chlorophyll in the grass. Red clay stain is another dye stain. Red clay is the dirt combination used to skim the infield; it’s made of clay mixed with sand or silt and topped with brick dust. The reddish color of the dirt comes from iron oxide or rust. A combination of chlorophyll and red clay stains makes uniform cleaning challenging.

Grass, Blood, Sweat Stains

Reach for an enzyme-based product and pre-soak in cold to lukewarm (less than 100 degrees F) water. Protein stains will set if exposed to hot water, an iron, or a dryer. Heat cooks the protein, causing coagulation between the fibers in the yarns of the fabric, making the stains more difficult to remove. Enzyme-based products (pre-soaks and detergents) work best as these cleaners contain enzymes that “eat” protein stains. When shopping for an enzyme laundry product, pay attention to products with “bio” or “enzyme action” somewhere in their name usually indicating that it likely contains enzymes. Launder by working a small amount of an enzyme based detergent into the stains and wash in enzyme detergent. If the stain persists, the American Cleaning Institute (ACI) recommends laundering with sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric, or oxygen bleach, www.cleaninginstitute.org.

Dirt Stains

Regular dirt stains respond to products that contain wetting agents. Liquid dish soap (blue Dawn), laundry detergent, or some stain-removing sprays are typically used. Wetting agents enable water and cleaning agents to penetrate the fabric for better release of dirt.

Red Clay Stains

Red clay (rust) stains are allergic to chlorine and oxygen bleaches. Chlorine bleach may set or make the stain permanent. Pretreat the stain with dish soap, detergent, or spot cleaner; soak in warm water, scrub with a brush, and launder. Cleanipedia recommends rubbing an enzyme detergent into the stain, letting it set overnight, and washing it as usual. If the stain persists, Cleanipedia also offers more drastic solutions using vinegar and salt and ammonia solutions, www.cleanipedia.com.

Nike, www.nike.com, the manufacturer of many kinds of sports pants, recommends soaking for at least an hour. After soaking the pants, scrub the stain with a spare, clean toothbrush or scrub brush to help release dirt particles. Then, wash the pants in warm water (approximately 110 degrees F) using the heavy soil cycle and plenty of water. Nike also suggests using detergents explicitly made for athletic uniform care as they are lower in alkaline, preventing yellowing of whites or color loss. Lastly, avoid using fabric softener on garments that contain Dri-FIT materials, as it can reduce the moisture-wicking properties of the fabric.

Clubbies, the nickname for those who launder uniforms for the major league teams, suggest the use of a product called Slide Out*, clubhouseucs.com. Slide Out is formulated with additives that increase the effectiveness of detergent to remove tough red clay, blood, ground in dirt, sweat, odors, and hard to remove grass stains from all activity uniforms. It is a two-part product. Slide Out 1 permeates the fabric and opens up the yarns and fibers. Slide Out 2 reacts with Slide Out 1, taking out the dirt and stain. Slide Out is recommended as a post-stain remover. Originally developed for the major leagues, Slide Out is now available to consumers along with other uniform cleaning products directly from the company, Clubhouse Kit LLC, that developed the products.

There are a number of other products on the market that suggest that they will do the job as well. As always, products should be used per label directions and tested in an inconspicuous spot before use.

“HATS OFF” to all the moms, dads, and grandparents who support youth and their activities with their time, encouragement, and laundry duty!

*Reference to any commercial product, process, or service, or the use of any trade, firm, or corporate name is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement, recommendation, or certification of any kind. Persons using such products assume responsibility for their use and should make their own assessment of the information and whether it is suitable for their intended use in accordance with current directions of the manufacturer.

Marlene Geiger

I am a graduate of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln with a BS in Home Economics Education and Extension and from Colorado State University with a MS in Textiles and Clothing. I enjoy spending time with family and friends, gardening, quilting, cooking, sewing, and sharing knowledge and experience with others.

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September is National Sewing Month

Marlene Geiger
Assorted sewing supplies
Assorted sewing supplies, hand and machine – Photo: mrgeiger

September is National Sewing Month!  “Sew” it “seams” we should take time to honor the history of sewing and celebrate those who enjoy this art form or craft.  National Sewing Month was first celebrated in 1982 after President Ronald Reagan signed a proclamation “in recognition of the importance of home sewing to our Nation.” 

While sewing might imply the use of a sewing machine, it encompasses the many ways of stitching with thread and needle—garments, home décor, embroidery, needlepoint, cross-stitch, quilting, and all other forms of drawing a thread and needle through a medium. Sewing is both a skill and a creative hobby enjoyed by millions of people from all walks of life around the world.

For those looking to embark on their sewing journey or enhance their skills, resources like TopSewingMachineUK offer a wealth of valuable information and guidance. Here, enthusiasts can access helpful articles and reviews to aid them in selecting the right tools and equipment for their sewing endeavors. Whether you’re a novice seeking to learn the basics or an experienced seamstress looking to expand your repertoire, this platform provides the resources you need to delve deeper into the world of sewing and unleash your creativity.

The art of sewing dates back to 25,000 B.C.E. when sewing was used to make clothing and shelter. Early materials consisted mostly of hides from animals and plant leaves. Thin strips of animal hide or long fibers drawn from plants made the first threads with bone and ivory being the first forms of needles.  Thomas Saint is credited with the invention of the sewing machine in 1750 followed by Isaac Singer’s prototype in 1851 that was to become the basis for the mechanization of sewing and the standard for the modern sewing machines we have today.  Prior to the 19th century, sewing was done by hand which allowed for perfecting skills as well as developing techniques for creative and decorative stitching.

Sewing has long been a favorite hobby of mine beginning with creations made with fabric scraps, thread, and needle for my dolls.  After my great-grandmother taught me to use her treadle machine, I turned out creations in mass.  As a 4-H member I enjoyed learning to use my mother’s electric machine and a pattern to fashion clothing for myself.  Each year was a new project with new skills.  That love of creating with fabric and a desire to understand fibers and fabrics led to my eventual college major.  While I never worked in the textile industry as I once envisioned, the skills and knowledge have given me a hobby and creative outlet that I still enjoy today.  And by joining with friends in guilds, I have learned and enjoyed many other forms of stitchery that have furthered by love of thread and needle. 

While we may recognize the skill and creative form of self-expression that sewing provides in the month of September, it is enjoyed all year.  During this month, there is a long list of retailers, bloggers, organizations, and others that promote “sewing” in an attempt to renew interest, share ideas, inspire, and teach.  If one was ever inclined to pick up thread and needle and try some form of sewing, the time to start is now. Creating quilts, clothing and other masterpieces not only develop new skills, but personal satisfaction, too. Sewing is a pleasurable activity to enjoy solo or with friends.  Happy sewing!

Marlene Geiger

I am a graduate of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln with a BS in Home Economics Education and Extension and from Colorado State University with a MS in Textiles and Clothing. I enjoy spending time with family and friends, gardening, quilting, cooking, sewing, and sharing knowledge and experience with others.

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Cleaning Your Iron

Marlene Geiger 2 Comments
Sole plate of an iron with residue to remove
Sole plate of an iron with residue to remove – Photo: mrgeiger

When was the last time you cleaned your iron?  Cleaning an iron can be one of those tasks that is easily forgotten or put off.  That is, until the iron seems to be sticking to fabric, spraying dirty water, or leaving black spots on your clothing.  It is not uncommon for dirt, dust, lint, detergent, and spray starch to build up on the soleplate of the iron or for water inside the water reservoir used for steam to cause dirty spots.  For those who sew or do fabric crafts, there is often the sticky residue from fusible interfacings or other fusible/iron-on products.

The frequency with which an iron needs to be cleaned depends on frequency of use and/or how it is used.  At any rate, a cleaning or maintenance schedule that meshes with the frequency or use is important to keeping the iron functioning properly.  If maintaining a schedule is too much, then a good rule of thumb is to clean as soon as a problem is detected—iron doesn’t glide as it should or steam doesn’t come out or sprays or spurts out rusty or black droplets onto the cloth.  All are signs that gunk has accumulated on the soleplate, the steam outlets are clogged, or tap water mineral deposits have accumulated in the water reservoir.

Fortunately, cleaning an iron isn’t that difficult.  If you’ve ever Googled “how to clean an iron”, you will find many shared methods.  And if you have a method that works for you, by all means continue on as the bottom line is to achieve a properly functioning iron.  If you are new to iron cleaning or unsure of how to proceed with your iron, the best route is to consult the owner’s manual as there may be specific guidelines for the kind of soleplate (stainless steel, ceramic, titanium, or non-stick), water reservoir, or self-cleaning feature unique to your iron. (If a manual is lost, often times they can be found online.)

Cleaning the Soleplate

Various options exist for cleaning the soleplate.  Below are the three most common recommendations by iron manufacturers.  In all cases, never use anything that could scratch the soleplate.

Hot Iron Cleaners.  Cleaning pastes are found almost anywhere fabric or laundry products are sold and usually restore the iron’s soleplate to perfect condition. They are nontoxic, nonflammable, and nonabrasive.  When the pastes are applied to a very hot iron soleplate, they quickly and easily remove starch, detergent, and fusing residue. These cleaners dissolve the residue either by ironing over the cleaner on an old towel or by squeezing the cleaner onto the soleplate and wiping off residue with an old towel or cloth.   (Rowenta offers a product specific to Rowenta irons for consumers who choose to use it.)  One must be careful to remove the paste from the steam vents as well. (Cotton swabs work great for vent cleaning.)

Iron Cleaning Cloths.  Cleaning cloths (usually in packs of 10) are designed to be disposable and as an alternative to hot iron cleaning pastes for quick clean ups.  They dissolve and remove any residue by simply running the cloth over a hot soleplate. They usually work best for less soiled soleplates or for very regular clean up.  Because there is no paste involved, they do not clog the steam vents.

Baking Soda and Water or Vinegar.  Both baking soda and vinegar are common household cleaners.  They also work wonders as a natural scouring agent to remove grime from an iron’s soleplate.  One begins by mixing baking soda with distilled water or vinegar to make a paste (approximate 2:1 proportions of soda to liquid).  Apply the paste with an old tooth brush to a cool, unplugged iron.  Scrub gently with the brush to loosen the residue; wipe residue away with a microfiber cloth until the soleplate is cleaned. Like the commercial pastes, the steam vents must be cleaned, too. 

Hot vinegar applied to a microfiber cloth works like an iron cleaning cloth if the residue is light.

After cleaning, fill the reservoir with water, heat, and run the iron over an old towel or cloth, pressing the spray button several times to insure the soleplate and vents are clean before ironing clothing. 

Cleaning the Water Reservoir

When cleaning the water reservoir, discretion is needed.  Steam iron reservoirs need to be cleaned out often to ensure that the appliance doesn’t leave rusty or black water marks on clothing or fabric, performs properly, minimizes build up that may damage clothing, and, thereby, extends the life of the appliance.  Whenever possible, follow manufacturer’s directions.

Distilled water is commonly and safely used for cleaning the reservoir and vents.  While there are many distilled water and vinegar recipes suggested for reservoir cleaning, most manufacturers caution against the use of vinegar.  In a previous blog, AnswerLine suggested a method of filling the reservoir with distilled water and allowing the iron to self-steam out the minerals, lint, and other accumulations in the reservoir and vents.

A commercial iron cleaner is another option to decalcify and remove lime and mineral build-up from steam irons and vents. However, some iron manufacturers will void the warranty if you use them as they can be harsh and cause additional damage.

Keep the Iron Working at Its Best

Here’s some tips to protect and keep an iron working at its best.

  • Whenever possible, use distilled water.  Tap water, even when filtered, contains minerals that can clog, corrode, or damage the iron resulting in rusty or black steam or spray.
  • Fill the iron with water before plugging in and while cool.
  • Empty the reservoir before storing the iron—especially if it isn’t used frequently.
  • Store in an upright position.  This will prevent water from leaking if water is left in the reservoir and avoid scratching the soleplate.
  • Avoid pressing or ironing over zippers, snaps, decals, pins, or any screen printing without using a pressing cloth to avoid scratching the soleplate or adhering paint or plastics to the soleplate.

Marlene Geiger

I am a graduate of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln with a BS in Home Economics Education and Extension and from Colorado State University with a MS in Textiles and Clothing. I enjoy spending time with family and friends, gardening, quilting, cooking, sewing, and sharing knowledge and experience with others.

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Preventing Color Transfer by Bleeding or Crocking

Marlene Geiger 23 Comments

Green jacket with a caution tag on it.

Caution tag defined: Due to the nature of the dye used in this garment, colors may bleed, crock, or fade on to other surfaces during washing, with friction or rubbing. Avoid using with light-colored clothing, accessories, furniture, car seats, etc. Wash separately in cold water. Avoid tumble drying to prevent color transfer to the dryer drum."

You think you have found the perfect garment—that is, until you wear it and it rubs off on your skin, bag, car seat, furniture, or other clothing OR it bleeds in the washing machine, staining all your other clothes, too.  Both scenarios are a result of color transfer by crocking and bleeding.

Crocking is color transfer that occurs when fabric rubs against something, such as skin, other clothing, furniture, shoes, etc. Crocking happens when the garment dye has not properly adhered to or set into the garment fabric.  If you have ever worn a new pair of new jeans and sat on something light colored or worn a light colored top and noticed blue streaks or coloration on the lighter color, it is because the excess dye on the surface of the garment that is has rubbed or crocked off.  Removing dye transfer by crocking is not always an easy task and may result in a permanent stain or discoloration.

Bleeding occurs when fabric dye leaches out in water or dry cleaning solvent; if the garment being laundered is mixed with other item, the released dye can bleed onto the other items in the load causing discoloration.  Depending on the other items, color removal after bleeding is not always successful. Bleeding also causes the original garment to fade or lose color.

Crocking and bleeding are of concern to consumers because of the mess or damage the transfer causes.  Garments with deeply dyed, dark fabrics are most prone to color transfer.  Reasons for transfer usually begins with the fabric manufacturer where a poor quality dye or incorrect dye was used for the fabric or fiber type, dyeing was incorrectly done, improper rinsing after dyeing, or lack of (or an improper) mordant or fixer was used to bind the dye to the fiber, yarn, or fabric.  A common myth is that washing the product in vinegar or salt “fixes” the color and prevents it from crocking or bleeding. Unfortunately, this is not the case. If salt or vinegar has been tried and it seemed to work, it is only because the free dye remnants were removed in the washing.  Acids help set some acid dyes in the dyeing process.  While vinegar is an acid, attempting to use it after the fact, offers no “fixing” protection. Salt is used in the dyeing process to open the fiber to absorb dye but has no effect on “fixing” after dyeing is complete.

Here are some ways which will help reduce crocking or bleeding the next time you are contemplating purchase of a black, red, navy or brilliantly colored garment:

  • Be a Label Reader. If the tag says “wash separately”, expect the dye to bleed during washing.  Wash the garment alone per directions the first time and note what you see in the water. Additional washings may be necessary to remove any excess dye.  Removal of the excess dye will also prevent crocking.  However, eac washing will also cause fading or lose of color.
  • Use a Color Fixative.  Color fixative products reduce color bleed in fabrics when the dye has not been properly fixed or thoroughly rinsed. These dye fixatives can “fix” loose dyes and prevent color bleeding.  Retayne™ or Rit®ColorStay Dye Fixative are two products that reduce color bleeding in cotton fabrics.  Retayne™ is a liquid cationic dye fixing agent used as a pretreatment on commercially dyed cotton fabrics that tend to bleed easily. Retayne does NOT work in energy efficient front loading machines as they do not supply enough water to properly treat the fabric. Top loading machines or using a tub of sufficient size (must be large enough for garment to move freely) are recommended.  A water temperature of 140°F is also needed for treatment to work properly.  This treatment only needs to be done once.  Rit®ColorStay Dye Fixative treatment is similar to Retayne™.  The procedure is much the same using hot water and treating before first use or laundering.  With either product, carefully follow the manufacturer’s directions for treating and laundering after treatment.  Be aware that neither product works on polyester or acrylic fabrics.
  • Color Catcher Sheets.  Chemically treated sheets are added to the laundry water to absorb and trap loose dye in the water.  The sheets contain compounds that attract dye molecules that leach out of colored fabrics and trap them in the sheets preventing color transfer to other clothing.  While the sheets work well, they are not totally reliable.  Washing with like colors is the only way to prevent color transfer.
  • Wash with Like Colors.  Regardless of age, the chemical fixers or mordants used to hold dye in the fibers, yarns, or fabrics can wear off after repeated washing.  Washing like colors helps prevent color run should there be any.
  • Dry Quickly.  Remove items from the washing machine at the end of the cycle as soon as possible.  Color transfer is more likely to take place as the wet items lay close together.

Fading is the gradual lose of color due to wear, tear, and care of the garment.  The dye gradually looses it’s vibrancy and strength as the mordant washes out of the garment; hot water expedites mordant lose. Friction can also cause fading due to the micro-breaks in the fibers or yarns that release dye.  Fading is more of a problem with natural fibers like cotton, wool, and silk due to their fibrous structure; synthetic fibers, like polyester, nylon, acrylic derived from chemical compounds, hold dye better. Exposure to bleach or light further add to fading.  Here are some ways to keep fading to a minimum:

  • Read and Follow the Care Label Directions.  These labels stipulate best care practices as determined by the garment manufacturer. 
  • Pretreat Stains.  Use appropriate products for the stain type and fiber content.  There is no miracle product that will remove all stains.
  • Launder Minimally.  Clothing is often washed because it is perceived to be dirty or smelly even though lightly used.  Airing a garment or using an odor eliminator can often remove odors.  Small spots can be spot treated.  Always use the setting on the machine that best suits the soil of the items to be laundered.  Hand wash delicates.
  • Use Cool or Cold Water.   Warm or hot water can make fibers or yarns swell resulting in the release of color.
  • Reduce Friction.  Agitation by rubbing increases garment wear and fade.  Turn garments wrong-side out to protect the face fabric.  Close zippers and metal hardware pieces.  The same is true for garments dried in the dryer.  Using the dryer minimally helps reduces friction, too; heat is hard on dark and bright colors and tumbling agitation makes them appear faded.  Fabric softeners also help reduce friction.
  • Minimize Light Exposure.  If line drying outside, remove clothes as soon as they are dry to minimize UV exposure.  Keep lights off in closets as incandescent lights can also cause fading.

Iowa State University Extension and Outreach and AnswerLine do not endorse or recommend any products mentioned in this blog. Reference to any commercial product, process, or service, or the use of any trade, firm, or corporate name is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement, recommendation, or certification of any kind. Persons using such products assume responsibility for their use and should make their own assessment of the information and whether it is suitable for their intended use in accordance with current directions of the manufacturer.

Reviewed 2/2025, mg.

Marlene Geiger

I am a graduate of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln with a BS in Home Economics Education and Extension and from Colorado State University with a MS in Textiles and Clothing. I enjoy spending time with family and friends, gardening, quilting, cooking, sewing, and sharing knowledge and experience with others.

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23 Comments on Preventing Color Transfer by Bleeding or Crocking

Sunscreen Stains

Marlene Geiger
Two tubes of sunscreen lotion.
Image source: Canva.com

Sunscreen is part of summer. While sunscreen is necessary to protect our skin from harmful rays, it may leave greasy stains on clothing and upholstery.  Removing sunscreen stains is not an easy task.  However, there are ways to remove most stains when accidental spills, slathers, or sprays occur on surfaces other than our skin or the sunscreen on our skin transfers to other surfaces.

Sunscreen stains result from the combination of ingredients used in the product.  Sunscreens contain two chemical compounds, ovobenzone and avobenzone, that block out UV and UVA rays, respectively.  These ingredients oxidize and tend to produce a yellowish or rust-colored stain when they interact with minerals in water, particularly hard water.  Once the reaction takes place, removing the stain becomes difficult to sometimes impossible.  Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are also components of sunscreen. These two ingredients don’t discolor fabric, but their white colored particles cling to the fibers even after washing. Sunscreens that include zinc are harder yet to remove.   The chemical makeup of our sweat can also worsen stains. Further, all fabrics do not absorb sunscreen in the same way, some less- and others more-so.  Silk and polyester fibers and fabrics absorb and trap oils more so than other fabrics.

Pre-Treating is Essential for Clothing Stains 

Due to the presence of the compounds in the sunscreen product, avoid pretreating by soaking garments or using bleach or oxygen bleach products; doing so will have little effect on the stain and may actually make it worse.  Household ingredients such as lemon juice and table salt and store-bought rust remover products are effective on ovobenzone and avobenzone stains. The HGTV website gives a step-by-step procedures for using lemon juice and salt as well as rust remover products.  Sunscreen oils are best dealt with using liquid dish soap/laundry detergent products gently massaged into the stain.  Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) is generally effective at removing titanium dioxide stains. Quick treatment is key to success.

Begin by blotting the stain to remove any excess cream, lotion, or spray.  Be careful to blot and not wipe or rub. Wiping the stain can spread it and make a larger stain.  Rubbing causes the stain to go deeper into the fabric’s yarns and fibers. Proceed with pretreating.  After pretreating, rinse and launder using a stain fighting detergent.  Air dry and check to see if the stain is gone.  If not, repeat.  

Treating Upholstery (Car and Household) Stains

Upholstery stains are more likely to be caused by the transfer of oils from skin to the fabric or leather. It is unlikely thatp upholstery will be laundered so there is less chance of ovobenzone and avobenzone creating a rust stain. As with clothing, begin by blotting the stain, avoiding wiping or rubbing.   The Green Wood Leather Company provides directions for cleaning leather depending upon the severity of the stain.  For fabric upholstery the process is much similar.  Follow directions provided here.

Don’t let a stain keep you from protecting your skin with sunscreen this summer.

_________________________
Sources:
How to Remove Sunscreen Stains from Clothing, Upholstery, and Car Seats.  HGTV.com
How to Get Sunscreen Off of Leather.  Green Wood Leather.com
How to Remove Sunscreen Stains from Carpet and Uphostery.  Indy Carpet Cleaning.com

Updated 3/2025, mg.

 

Marlene Geiger

I am a graduate of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln with a BS in Home Economics Education and Extension and from Colorado State University with a MS in Textiles and Clothing. I enjoy spending time with family and friends, gardening, quilting, cooking, sewing, and sharing knowledge and experience with others.

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Prevent Clothing Moths

Liz Meimann 2 Comments

The warm weather makes me want to finish up cleaning and storing winter items. I typically wash all our winter coats, hats, mittens, and scarves.  The flannel sheets and heavy blankets are clean and stored away.  The next thing I need to do is wash or dry-clean all our woolen sweaters and shirts and store them to prevent damage from clothing moths.

Once cleaned, I store them in a cool, dry place, away from any potential sunlight or moisture that could warp or discolor the fabric. When you’re looking to expand or refresh your hat collection, it’s a good idea to consider adding versatile pieces that will carry you through multiple seasons. One great option is headwear from TheGoodwellCompany.com, offering a selection of high-quality hats made from durable, stylish materials.

Whether you’re in need of a chic summer hat or a cozy winter option, their collection provides a range of styles to match any look or occasion. Investing in well-made hats can help elevate your wardrobe while also providing the protection you need from the elements, so you can enjoy them year after year.

I did a little research on clothing moths since it has been a while since we had any questions from AnswerLine callers on this topic. These moths like to lay eggs on woolen and other animal fiber articles of clothing.  There are actually two different species of clothing moths.

The case making clothes moth and the webbing clothes moth both appear very similar.  They are both yellowish in color and about ¼ inch long.  They look a bit fluttery when flying and both avoid the light.  Their fully grown larvae are about ½ inch long and white when brownish-black heads.  Both will spin a feeding tube or protective case into the fabric that they are feeding upon.

This larval stage is the only life stage when the insect feeds; the eggs and adult moths do not damage clothing. The clothing moths prefer quiet dark areas like closets, attics and seldom used drawers or trunks.  If you store an item for a long time in one of those quiet spots the item is particularly at risk.  Moths typically will not damage anything in a high traffic or use area.

You may be wondering how to prevent a clothing moth infestation. The best answer to this is to be meticulous in keeping both the storage area and the garments clean.  Vacuuming will remove eggs and laundering or dry cleaning will also destroy the eggs.  Cleaning items will also remove food stains and body oils which will also attract moths.  You may need to brush or leave items in the bright sunlight to get rid of larvae or eggs.  Remember to brush the items outdoors so you don’t re-infest your home.

Freezing is another alternative to control the larvae or eggs in an item that you cannot wash or dry-clean. You must leave the item in a freezer set at 0F for at least 48-72 hours. This will be great if you have stuffed animals or items with feathers on them.

After your items are cleaned, store them in a tightly sealed container. You may want to choose a tightly sealed plastic tub.  Cedar does contain oil that acts as an insecticide but is only effective if tightly contained.  A cedar closet is not typically tight enough to actually kill the moths.  Moth balls can be effective if placed inside a tightly sealed container but they are toxic and you may want to avoid using them.  The odor of the mothballs is very long lasting so you may choose to just use the tightly sealed tub alone.

It looks like I have a project for this weekend, but once I get everything cleaned it will be safely stored for the summer.

Liz Meimann

I received both my undergraduate and graduate degrees in Food Science at Iowa State University. I love to quilt, sew, cook, and bake. I spent many years gardening, canning, and preserving food for my family when my children were at home.

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Winter Weather Preparation

Beth Marrs

We just got home from one of our favorite places to vacation, the mountains in Colorado. The weather was deceivingly cold.  Even when the sun was out and our skiers and snow boarders came home with many spots that needed to be warmed up!  Fortunately we didn’t have any cases of frostbite, but I thought it would be helpful to review how to dress for the cold weather and what to do when someone does show signs of frostbite or hypothermia.

Here are some important things to remember when you are outside exposed to the elements for long periods of time:

  • Wear a hat to prevent thermal loss from your head. Even better; a mask that covers your nose and cheeks will help keep more parts of your face from getting frostbite. Mittens that are water resistant (mittens are said to keep your fingers warmer). Warm wool socks (again not cotton) and well insulated boots that will stay dry and will keep your feet protected and warm.
  • Dress in layers. Avoid cotton since it is not a good insulator. When cotton gets wet it takes longer to dry and your body temperature will rapidly drop. Better materials are synthetics like polypropylene and performance fabrics or wools that wick wetness away from you skin. The middle layer should offer some insulation even if it gets wet from snow or sweat. Wear a thick insulating fabric over your wicking layers. Have waterproof or at least water resistant outside layers.
  • If you feel body parts getting really cold it is time to come inside and find shelter to warm up. Waiting too long can cause your body temperature to drop which could become life threatening.
  • Remember you burn more calories in cold weather so make sure you have snacks and liquids to refresh yourself.

According to Mayo Clinic Frostbite occurs in several stages:

  • Frostnip. The first stage of frostbite is frostnip. With this mild form of frostbite, your skin pales or turns red and feels very cold. Continued exposure leads to prickling and numbness in the affected area. As your skin warms, you may feel pain and tingling. Frostnip doesn’t permanently damage the skin.
  • Superficial frostbite. The second stage of frostbite appears as reddened skin that turns white or pale. The skin may remain soft, but some ice crystals may form in the tissue. Your skin may begin to feel warm — a sign of serious skin involvement. If you treat frostbite with rewarming at this stage, the surface of your skin may appear mottled, blue or purple. And you may notice stinging, burning and swelling. A fluid-filled blister may appear 24 to 36 hours after rewarming the skin.
  • Severe (deep) frostbite. As frostbite progresses, it affects all layers of the skin, including the tissues that lie below. You may experience numbness, losing all sensation of cold, pain or discomfort in the affected area. Joints or muscles may no longer work. Large blisters form 24 to 48 hours after rewarming. Afterward, the area turns black and hard as the tissue dies.

Rewarm mild frostbite areas by using warm water (101 to 104 degrees) NOT hot water or by applying warm cloths to the area. Make sure you remove any jewelry before rewarming since swelling may occur and NEVER rub or massage the frozen area.

Seek medical attention for frostbite if you experience:

  • Signs and symptoms of superficial or deep frostbite — such as white or pale skin, numbness, or blisters
  • Increased pain, swelling, redness or discharge in the area that was frostbitten
  • Fever
  • New, unexplained symptoms

Get emergency medical help if you suspect hypothermia, a condition in which your body loses heat faster than it can be produced.

Signs and symptoms of hypothermia include:

  • Intense shivering
  • Slurred speech
  • Drowsiness and loss of coordination

The winter weather offers many fun things to do but care needs to be taken to make sure you are not endangering your health. Remember to dress correctly and watch to make sure that frostbite is not going to spoil your fun in the snow!

 

Beth Marrs

I graduated from Iowa State University with a degree in Adult Home Economics Education. I love to cook and entertain and spend time with my family.

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Making Sense of Clothing Care Labels

Marcia Steed

I was recently doing some laundry for a family member and double checking the care labels. If you are anything like me, some of them can be confusing! Here is a basic primer on care labels with links for more information if you are interested.

Anything wash related has a pictogram that looks like a wash tub with waves representing water on the top. If that is the only symbol showing, it is okay to wash the garment normally. Any lines under that tub indicate permanent press or a delicate/gentle cycle depending on the number of lines.

The bleach pictogram is a triangle. If there is a blank triangle, any bleach is okay to use when needed. If there are lines in the triangle, only non-chlorine bleach should be used when needed.

A square represents the dryer. A circle inside the square means normal drying. Again, any lines under that square would mean less heat on either the permanent press or delicate/gentle cycle depending on the number of lines. A blank circle in the square means any heat is okay while a darkened circle in the square means no heat/air only. Between those two extremes are circles with dots in. Three dots for high heat down to one dot for low heat.

The ironing symbol looks basically like an iron. Unless the pictogram shows lines representing steam coming from the bottom of the iron with those lines crossed out, you may use a dry or steam iron. Again, maximum temperatures for ironing are shown in dot form with three dots being high temperature down to one dot for low temperature.

A circle on its own is used for dry cleaning. An X through the circle means “Do Not Dry Clean”. Additional information in or around the circle is for the drycleaner.

The Federal Trade Commission enforces the Care Labeling Rule which requires manufacturers and importers to attach care instructions to garments.

This was a good refresher for me and I hope helps you read the care labels in your garments more easily.

Marcia Steed

I graduated from Iowa State University with a degree in Home Economics Education. I enjoy spending time with my family and friends and traveling.

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Displaying Quilts in Your Home

Liz Meimann 1 Comment

Quilt1

In a previous blog, we discussed methods for cleaning the quilts you may have in your home.

 

 

 

Here are a few tips for hanging that special quilt:

 

  1. If the quilt is an older one or a on the delicate side, consider sewing a lining to the entire back of the quilt. The lining will help protect the quilt from dust and will help support the hanging weight of the quilt. Use an unbleached muslin that you have washed and dried a few times. This will soften the lining and allow the quilt to drape or hang more naturally.
  2. You can also make a casing the width of the quilt. You can use leftover scraps from the quilt if you have them, or use the unbleached muslin again. This casing helps distribute the hanging weight of the quilt more evenly.
  3. If you put a casing at both the top and bottom of the quilt, you can change the direction it is hanging occasionally.
  4. Remember not to hang the quilt in direct sunlight. Even indirect sunlight can cause the fabrics in the quilt to fade. Dark fabrics are affected more rapidly than other colors.
  5. Avoid areas with extreme temperature changes; such as near a heat duct or a window. Over time this can damage the quilt.
  6. Change the quilts you have on display periodically. Old quilts may stretch or tear if hung on display for long periods of time.
  7. Avoid hanging quilts in kitchens were dust and grease fumes can soil the quilt rapidly. Also avoid areas where people or pets will often touch the quilt. Skin oils will also add to the soil and stains on a quilt.
  8. NEVER hang a quilt by directly tacking or nailing it to the wall. NEVER hang a quilt with clip-on metal curtain hangers. The weight of the quilt gradually creates small tears where it is clipped.

If you have a number of quilts, you will want to store them carefully between the times that you choose to display them on your wall. Of course, the easiest way to store them is to use them on a bed that is seldom slept on. Otherwise, the best methods for storing quilts are:

  1. Acid-free boxes or papers would be best for storing quilts, but if unavailable, quilts can be wrapped in clean cotton sheets or washed, unbleached muslin.
  2. Quilts can be stored folded in acid-free boxes or storage units or rolled around cardboard tubing. If you choose the rolled method of storage, it’s best to purchase acid-free cardboard tubes from an archival supply vendor (see attached list). If an acid-free tube is not used, cover the tube with a protective barrier layer of tin foil, then muslin or acid free tissue. If quilts are stored folded, folds should be padded with acid-free tissue paper in the folds
  3. .Plastics should generally NOT BE USED for storage. They contain harmful vapors which contribute to the deterioration of the fabrics. Plastics which are particularly harmful: dry cleaner’s bags, heavy duty garbage bags, garment bags and Styrofoam.
  4. Newspapers and cardboard boxes are NOT OKAY because they are full of harmful decaying agents — just remember how your newspaper looks after being out in the sun for only a few minutes. Think of what contact with your quilt can mean!
  5. Don’t stack too many folded quilts on top of each other or else the weight of all of the quilts will create creases that are hard to get out. For the same reason, unfold and refold your quilts every 3-6 months to avoid severe creasing.

 

Enjoy the quilts in your home. I have quilt racks in most of the rooms in my home; several rooms have two or three quilt racks. I enjoy rotating the quilts seasonally.

 

 

 

 

 

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Liz Meimann

I received both my undergraduate and graduate degrees in Food Science at Iowa State University. I love to quilt, sew, cook, and bake. I spent many years gardening, canning, and preserving food for my family when my children were at home.

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Textiles
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